This is just some key points that I can think of looking back
on all of this.
- Torque the flywheel down to 76 ft/lbs
- Torque the flexplate down to 35 ft/lbs
- DON'T FORGET A PILOT BEARING!! ;)
- Measure and remeasure your drive shaft before you cut it. This is how
I did my measurements: With the car still on the rack and wheels dangling,
I put the yoke in the transmission till it bottomed out. Then pulled it
back 1/4-1/2". (Some people will tell you this is not the way to do
it, but I look at it like "This is THE farthest the drive shaft would
go in. If it goes farther than that I have something else MAJORLY wrong.)
Then you measure (AND REMEASURE) from the center of the tranny yoke to the
center of the differential yoke.
- Save all the pieces from the 200-4R, they might come in handy someday
to you or someone else.
- Try and get everything together at once. That way you can just go step
by step without having to wait for something to be delivered or picked up.
- There needs to be some trimming of the steering column bracket for hydraulic
clutch pedal clearance. This is not necessary if you go for the mechanical
- The Lakewood Bellhousing needed to be trimmed on one corner for header
- Try and cut as small a hole as possible for the shifter to come through.
This way you don't have to make a plate afterwards to cover it.
- Replace all U-Joint in the process.
- Get bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate.
- The hydraulics need to be routed on the left side (facing the windshield)
of the steering box and outside of the headers. Save yourself some frustration
and take the brake booster out and rebleed the brakes afterwards. It is
much easier with the '94 Camaro clutch setup with the steel braided line.
- Measure as much as possible for you cross member. You will probably have
to make one or get someone else to.
- NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU PLAN YOU'LL NEVER HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED!! ;)
- The last three MOST IMPORTANT tips I can give: BE PATIENT , DON'T
FORGET THE BEER and HAVE FUN!!! It'll all be worth it in the